Great Expectations
With big plans and little time, the conditions were perfect. No snow for weeks and weeks meant miserable skiers and happy climbers. Nothing but ice in the gullies and bomber névé meant big routes were being fired off all over the place…’til we got there!!
Our arrival in Chamonix was greeted with a layer of fresh snow and still more forecast…shit. The prospect of being avalanched or falling down a crevasse didn’t appeal so our thoughts turned to skiing. Not being much of a skier I spent most of the next day trying not to smash into the 1000 other people on the slope who also thought that’d be a good way to spend the day, while Jon, being a much better skier than me, stood around waiting for me to catch up.
Having survived that ordeal and with a better forecast we turned to more familiar activities and headed to Cogne. Neither Jon nor I had ever been there and word on the street was the ice was fat…we were psyched again. An hour and a half after leaving Cham we found ourselves in a new winter wonderland with massive icefalls all over the place, a shit topo and no idea where to start! Above the parking was an easy looking gulley line with a quick approach. After a pleasant romp up what turned out to be Lilaz Gulley (a very steady WI 4), we looked for something a little steeper. Our arrival at the base of the classic Tuborg was met with Jon and me looking at each other wondering who had packed the screws; arse…not enough daylight to go back and get them that was us done for the day!
Jon approaching the steepness on Lilaz Gulley WI 4 Photo: Jim McCormack
After a late start due to a broken heater in the van (getting up early isn’t my strong point, especially when it’s -20 outside), the following day went a little better with an ascent of the classic Stella Artice (WI 5). A stunning route with a crux second pitch, on a vertical, free-standing curtain!
Climber high up on the crux second pitch of Stella Artice WI 5 Photo: Jim McCormack
More snow followed that evening so a return to skiing it was. With improving visibility in the afternoon Les Houches offers stunning views of the Tacul and across to the Verte…
The view of the Verte from the Les Houches ski lifts! Photo: Jim McCormack
These trips never quite turn out how you plan them, but it’s pretty hard not to have a good time when the worst weather means you have to ski, and places like Cogne are on the doorstep where you can climb steep ice with sun on your back!
North Wales Winter Climbing guide arrives!
The scene in the V12 cafe this morning just after the guide arrived. Left to right: Jon Ratcliffe, Mark 'Baggy' Richards (guide author), Rhys Huws, Streaky Desroy, Nick Bullock, Keith Ball, Donald King, Tim Neill and daughter Photo: Si Panton
First thing this morning Si Panton walked into our Llanberis shop with a load of the freshly printed North Wales Winter Climbing guides.
He’d had quite an epic journey across to Grimsby the previous day (which you can read about here), but none of that mattered any more because the books were here and the queue at the till confirmed everything we thought about this exciting book.
The North Wales winter scene is already buzzing but this could be a real game changer. Get yourself a copy and see what all the fuss is about.
North Wales Winter Climbing guidecoming first week of January
We now have an arrival time for the new North Wales Winter Climbing guide.
“I will be picking up the guides from the printer on the evening of Friday 6th Jan, so it will be available from V12 shop in Llanberis on Saturday morning. It is 200 pages of winter fun and adventure, all packed into a neat pocket sized guidebook. Get one while stocks last, this thing is going to fly out!”
Enthused guide editor Si Panton.
The winter season has continued with epic amounts of snowfall, a surge of new routes and numerous ascents of the big icefall lines such as Central Icefall Direct VI 6 and the Devil’s Appendix VI 6. This is shaping up into a truly amazing winter season, even stronger than last year.
Winter has arrived – time to get an ice axe deal!
Black Diamond Viper Ice Axe with Lockdown Leashes - Pair Deal £340 down to £260
Snow on the hills, temperatures plummeting…is it to soon to say that the Welsh winter is here?!
The forecast for the next week or two is certainly very cold, so there may be some mixed climbing action available.
But what about upgrading your ice tools first? We have a number of tempting deals on pairs. Check out the following beauties:
Black Diamond Cobra Ice Axe with Android Leashes – Pair Deal. Was £500.00, now £399.99
Black Diamond Reactor Ice Axe – Pair Deal. Was £320, now £258
Black Diamond Viper Ice Axe with Lockdown Leashes – Pair Deal. Was £340, now £260
DMM Anarchist Ice Axe – Pair Deal. Was £359.98, now £199.99
DMM Rebel Ice Axe – Pair Deal. Was £319.99, now £265.64
Petzl Quark Ice Axe – Pair Deal. Was £380, now £299.99
We’ve also got a deal on the DMM Revolution 22cm Ice Screw. This is down from £43.93 to £36.78.
So this weekend why not get yourselves out in the hills for a look around? If the turf is frozen there could be some mixed climbing to be had. And if it’s not, at least you can go for a walk to break your boots in and get a bit of winter fitness back.
New Limestone guidebook to support North Wales Bolt Fund
Gav Foster on the crux of the superb Hole of Creation E3 6a, Little Orme Photo: Si Panton
A group of North Wales activists are collaborating on the production of a new guidebook to the Ormes Limestone area in North Wales. This publication is dedicated to supporting the North Wales Bolt Fund which has played a crucial role in the vast amount of re-equipping work undertaken to-date. There has been a need for a new guide since Rockfax’s 1997 North Wales Limestone became out of print.
The book will be in the shops in March 2011 in time for the spring season. It will provide up-to-date route information with colour topos and a range of top quality action photos. There will also be an historical section, a graded list, access and conservation information, plus unique contributions from climbers past and present who have helped to define and develop the climbing in this area. Two sample pages which give a feel for how the finished work will look are available to download here and here.
The guidebook team is made up of experienced and active local climbers, who between them have an extensive pool of knowledge of all the crags in the guidebook area throughout the grade range. The team consists of Pete Harrison, Andy Boorman and Jon Ratcliffe with contributions from a host of other keen locals including Lee Roberts, Chris Doyle, Pete Robins and Simon Panton.
“We’re really excited about the new book, and it has been great to see all the locals coming forward to support the project. The financial boost to the bolt fund is going to be very welcome and, really, it was the obvious thing to do. Even if you only climb on the Ormes occasionally, please buy a copy as it will help us to keep the bolts and belays in good condition.”
Enthused Pete Harrison.
It is important to note that this guidebook is being researched and written by a group of volunteers who are passionate about climbing in the area – none of the volunteers will be drawing a wage or making any profit from the proceeds of the book sales; all proceeds from the sale of the guide will go to the North Wales Bolt Fund. These contributions will go directly towards the cost of continuing the equipping work of installing marine-grade bolts in place of old expansion bolts which are slowly rotting away in the aggressive salt-water environment.
Last year Lower Pen Trwyn received an extensive re-equipping with resin bolts supplied by the bolt fund, and access to major cliffs such as The Diamond would not be possible without the efforts of the NWBF. Access to Upper Pen Trwyn would also be under serious threat were it not for the work of a small team of volunteers who have been checking and replacing lower-off anchors on over 150 routes including trad, sport and mixed. This work is essential to aid the BMC efforts to maintain access to routes above the Marine Drive.
(NB. If you wish to make a donation to the NWBF there is a clickable donate link on the front page of the North Wales Limestone wiki.)
North Wales Winter Climbing interim guide coming soon!
Cover of the forthcoming interim guide
The first dusting of snow landed on the Carneddau this week and thoughts of winter climbing were stirred up once again. To further add to the rising levels of psyche, all you fanatical winter climbers might like to know about a forthcoming publication, North Wales Winter Climbing, an interim guide which is sure to set the scene on fire.
Also, if we had a penny for every time someone asked when the new Llanberis Slate guide was due out we’d probably have quite a few pennies, enough say, to retire for the rest of our lives. Okay, maybe that’s an exaggeration, but the point remains, there is much anticipation of this new guide.
And then there is Gogarth South, and the North Wales Bouldering guide has just sold out…so just what exactly is happening over at the Ground Up office in Brynrefail?
Well, now we know as Ground Up head honcho, Si Panton has just posted a news item on the Ground Up site giving the low down on all the forthcoming titles for North Wales.
New V12 shop opens in Stockport
The back half of the newly opened V12 shop at the Awesome Walls climbing wall in Stockport. Photo: Gareth Aston
The V12 partnership with Awesome Walls continues to flourish. Following on from the success of the recently opened V12 shops in the Liverpool and Stoke climbing walls, we are thrilled to declare the opening of a very special V12 shop in the Awesome Walls climbing wall in Stockport.
Gareth Aston, V12 managing director, explains the set up:
“This is more than just a ‘climbing wall shop’; it has the largest selection of rock climbing shoes available and will soon have even more. We are doing crag clothing and hardware with great deals all the time. Plus there are DMM 2nds – we are the only shop in the country that has them. Also you have the full backup of the Llanberis, Liverpool and Stoke stores, so if it’s not in Stockport we can get it there quickly, and as ever do check out our stuff online.”
Before adding:
“We remain committed to the concept of the independent climbing shop; that means more choice, better deals and experienced staff you can trust. Come and check us out, you won’t be disappointed.”
New Tremadog guide arrives
Front cover showing Don Sargeant's shot of Jonathan Croxford on The Fang HVS 5b, Craig Bwlch y Moch
Eric’s Café may be up for sale, but the recent run of Tremadog clean up sessions (organised by Mike Raine) have shown just how much affection people feel towards crags such as Bwlch y Moch, or indeed any of the other wonderful dolerite crags in the area. Riding on the back of this renewed wave of enthusiasm is the brand new Climbers’ Club Tremadog guide which has just arrived and is already selling like hot cakes on a cold morning.
The new guide follows on from the well received Llanberis and Ogwen books and continues the trend in CC guides towards a fresher and more modern design. This really is a world away from the previous edition, which famously rejected the popular star rating system and consequently painted a rather dour picture of what are some of the best crags in Snowdonia (although to be fair it did have some excellent action shots).
This time we not only get the stars back, but lots of lovely, full colour topos and enticing action shots. Funky little graphic symbols and a ‘talking head’ history section add further colour, functionality and interest. There is also much attention given to the peripheral crags, such as Moel y Gest which even has a rash of new sport routes (partially covered here because development is still ongoing), and the delightful Nantmor crags.
Grab yourself a copy and go get some of that exquisite dolerite action!
V12 now a specialist outlet for The North Face Summit series
The North Face Men's Point Five Jacket £248.99 - a superb technical shell from the Summit series
V12 has been chosen to be a specialist outlet for North Face Summit series. This is an exclusive club, with only 20 other retailers in the UK involved.
This comes as part of a move by The North Face to reconnect with the technical aspect of their brand, something which we at V12 applaud.
The new winter range is now in stock – come and check it out, or have a look at our range on line.
DMM Cosmetic seconds – new batch has arrived
DMM Eclipse Wiregate Quickdraw 12cm Cosmetic 2nd - only £9.99!
Bargain hunter alert! We’ve got a new batch of DMM cosmetic seconds up online now. These tend to sell through very quickly, so if you see something you want don’t hang about as we may not have them for very long.
