DMM Cosmetic Seconds Film
Just incase you haven’t seen it anywhere else we thought we had better post it here for continuities sake! Just click on the link to see the final version.
DMM Cosmetic Seconds
Spain, Spain, Spain!
With the nights closing in and the weather getting worse, a few of us decided grab a few days in Spain, get a bit of sun, and make the most of what was left of summers fitness.
The choice venue was, once again, northern Spain, taking advantage of the seemingly endless amount of rock in Cataluña. The first port of call was the huge expanse of conglomerate at Montsant’s Raco de Misa sector. None of us had ever visited this crag before and it lived up to its reputation; a set of massive walls of varying angles with long, sustained routes navigating their way up a sea of two finger pockets!
The amazing Raco de Misa wall at Montsant. Photo: J McCormack
Jim on Hidrofobia in the late evening sun. Photo: Rory Shaw
Not being used to constantly pulling on two finger pockets, this kind of climbing really takes its toll on the skin and the tendons, so we decided to head north and grapple with some tufas for a bit. We arrived at Terradets hoping to get stuck into some on-sight action, but being Brits, our arrival was marked by the arrival of what seemed like the monsoon season. We decided to bail to Santa Linya instead, always a good venue in the rain, but not a place to be if you’re not feeling at the top of your game! As the rain came down, me, Dave and Neil all decided to warm up on things that weren’t anything like warm-ups, then get stuck into something to redpoint, while Rory made the most of the umbrella effect of the cave and get stuck into redpointing a bottle of wine and some chorizo…some of us were on a proper holiday!!
Rory enjoying holiday sun on a mega F6c at Montsant. Photo:J McCormack
The following day everything was totally soaked, so it was down south again to get stuck back into some pockets. Margalef is one of the “in” venues of sport climbing at the moment, and forms the other side of the Montsant massif. Most of us had been there before, but it offers a truly endless amount of climbing of all different lengths and angles, from 3 bolt boulder routes to 40 meter stamina fests, there’s something for everyone. After a few days though, our thoughts turned back to the start of the trip and unfinished business, and so the following day we found ourselves back at the sun drenched walls of the Raco de Misa.
Jim on an onsight attempt of the classic Magic Festival at Raco de Tenebres at Margalef. Photo: Rory Shaw
Dave Evans high up on the classic F7b+ Montsantrat. Photo: Neil Dyer
The last two days were spent up at the wall, with an amazing bivvy below the huge walls, illuminated by the full moon on a crystal clear night. The last day seemed to see all the action, with me getting a pre-breakfast redpoint of the classic 8a Hidrofobia before the sun swung onto the face, Neil flashing it for his warm up, and Scottish dark horse Iain Small showing who the stamina king was by taking 30 minutes to “rest” his way up it in the full sun…a truly amazing show of not only fitness, but also, for a winter-climbing-uber-wad, tolerance of hard climbing in 30 degree heat!
Neil attempting the classic F8b+ of the crag, L-Ments. Photo: J McCormack.
Iain Small escaping the shade on Hidrofobia (F8a). Photo: J McCormack
Recent bits and bobs!
More good scenes down the Diamond again yesterday afternoon (cheers Gaz, Jack & Bertie for letting me leave work early!!) with a good bunch of people and what felt like the best conditions for some time!
Another first ascent too, this time courtesy of Tommy. The Empire State is now a stern 30m F8a taking the full height of the crag. I belayed Tommy on this the other day and it looks awesome…good effort Tommy!!
I seem to have spent most of my time at the Diamond lately, but here are a few photos of recent bits and bobs…
Joe Chorley enjoying the morning sun at LPT on Mean Mother F7b. Photo: Jim McCormack
Gus Hudgins throwing shapes on Boat People F7c ...erm, nice colour vest Gus!! Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim attempting to revisit former glories, Jerry's Problem V10/7C+ at the Sheep Pen. Temps have been dropping recently...the bouldering psyche is returning! Photo: Matty Lewis
BIG Tim Neill cruising Boat People. Photo: Jim McCormack
Evening light at the Diamond, looking across Llandudno. Photo: Jim McCormack
The Diamond
Since returning from the Alps I’ve been fully back into sport mode, with my mind on finishing redpoint business down at LPT! Through the summer there was a long list of people all with projects down there, but as the summer drew to a close it seemed I was the only one left behind. After 3 weeks of pull-ups before work and not eating seconds I finally managed to climb my long-term nemesis, Melanchollie F8b…I could finally relax, and was able to get down the Diamond with everyone else, free from the chains of a long-term project.
Pete Robins making the most of the brand new bolts on Robinson Cruiser F7c+. Photo: Jim McCormack
The Diamond is one of the real unsung gems of British sport climbing, but, like many crags on the Little Orme, is bird banned for much of the year. This, combined with major access problems due to the tidal range and the more than fickle conditions, makes it a difficult place to climb on. Nevertheless, when August 15th comes around, there’s always a band of Diamond devotees, ever keen to get down.
Caff high up on the recently re-bolted Wall of Evening Light, an epic 50m F7b+! Photo: Joe Chorley
The crag was largely developed in the late 80’s and early 90’s, with George Smith and Steve Mayers being the main protagonists. After this wave of development the Diamond went out of fashion, and for many years was forgotten by all but a select few! Three years ago however, North Wales bolting machine Pete Harrison took it upon himself to remedy this, and improved access with hand line; all of a sudden the tidal window became less of an issue, and Diamond climbing was fully back in business. With every subsequent year the momentum has built, with this year being the busiest yet. Many of the old routes are now fully re-equipped, seeing their first (re)ascents in probably 20 years, along with some notable first ascents becoming instant classics. The list of these was added to on a busy Saturday afternoon this week, with the Brute getting it’s 3rd ascent from Caff, Ding Dong nipping up an old open project to give Dumpster Divers F8a+, and Non-Tidal Screamer F7c seeing its first ascent in some years after recently being re-bolted. The activity continued with Never get out of the Boat, a now super classic F8a getting a couple of ascents from Owen and Ally, and Pete nipping in for a quick 2nd ascent of Dumpster Divers; with more routes getting cleaned up and projects being scoped out left, right and center, hopefully October will be a bumper month at the Diamond!!
For more info on the Diamond check out the North Wales Limestone Wiki;
http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Diamond
And for all the beta on Ding Dongs new route, watch the video!
DMM Seconds – ‘What are they all about?’
We recently went down to DMM to ask Fred Hall some probing questions about DMM Cosmetic Seconds, cutting edge fashion and other pertinent catechisms. We took a camera with us and also got to play with the testing equipment. Let’s face it, it doesn’t get much better than that. Currently in the process of putting it all together we thought we’d throw you this teaser as an idea of what is to come.
Summer Alps Hit
Recently got back from a few weeks in the Alps. As usual we headed out with lots of routes planned, all we needed was endless sunshine! As it turned out all the places we wanted to go to were under snow or soaking wet, so we aimed ourselves at the Ecrin…often much better weather being a bit further south and always pretty chilled!
We got there and, as promised, the weather was good, but things could have gone a little smoother with our mode of transport with Jon’s exhaust falling off in Ailefroide!!
Jon assessing the damage!!
Still, the van seemed to sound okay so we carried on regardless and managed to get some climbing done!
Heading up towards the Aiguille de Sailouze. Super Pilou starts up the black rock at the base, before following the slabby shoulder in the sun to access the upper walls. Photo: Jim McCormack
The first route we did was on the south-west face of the Aiuguille de Sailouze. Super Pilou is a largely bolted route of about 12 pitches with difficulty up to about F6a on solid, golden granite, that tops out at aroun 3,500m. With a big walk in to a bivvy spot the evening before it was the perfect route to brush the cobwebs away!
Jon seconding the first pitch of Super Pilou. Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim on lower pitches of Super Pilou. Photo: Jon Byrne
Jon approaching the steepness on the Sailouze. Photo: Jim McCormack
After a rest day and a bit of valley cragging we headed for a long route on the compact limestone of the Tete de Colombe…only to get snowed off the last 2 pitches. After a very wet retreat and walk out, we went to the bakery, ate lots of pain aux chocolate, and went to Ceuse. I always forget how good this crag is-the climbing is just amazing! After a good day of on-sighting the weather was on the up in the mountains, so off we went.
Next up was another long granite route, this time on the south side of Les Bans. Pas D’Asile pour Pazazu is a nicely sustained route about 500m long on fantastic, compact rock.
The Contrefort Median on the south side of Les Bans. Pas D'Asile pour Pazazu takes a line up the centre of the buttress, just right of the vague groove feature. Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim on Pas D'Asile pour Pazazu. Photo: Jon Byrne
The timing was marginally better on this route, climbing and descending in the sun, until the last 2 abseils and the (long) walk out accompanied by heavy, heavy rain! Another few rest days (if only to dry the ropes!!) and we set our sights on a classic route on the Tete du Rouget.
We’d seen the less impressive side of this mountain before, from the fairy tale-esque Aiguille Dibona, but had been told of an amazing, long route on the south side up solid, red granite. A slightly committing abseil approach left us at the base of the wall and our first look at the route. Solid, red patina catching the morning sun got us pretty psyched and the climbing didn’t disappoint. Le Tresor de Rackham le Rouget has awesome climbing up to F6c, with many sustained 6a/6b pitches through some unlikely terrain, and stunning views, left us in no doubt why this route had been recommended.
Jon on the belay of the first pitch of Le Tresor de Rackham le Rouget. Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim traversing out from the belay on the start of the crux 6c pitch. Photo: Jon Byrne
Jon on a bold 6a pitch, close to the summit of the Tete du Rouget. Photo: Jim McCormack
The following morning, with not a single pain aux chocolate for sale in the whole of the valley, we departed in search of our chocolaty elixir! Later that day the rain arrived and we decided to head home. A brief stop in Chamonix on the way north (thanks Jack for beer, food and entertainment!!) and that was us done!
Mammut Eiger Extreme Range New for 2011/12
Mammut is synonymous with quality, being Swiss though, I don’t suppose you would expect too much else! From their humble beginnings as a rope manufacturer almost 150 years ago, they have grown into a multi million pound international Sports Group who’s product range encompasses mountaineering, ski sports and outdoor sports. Over the years Mammut has been at the forefront of technological advances, spending huge amounts of time and money in research and development alongside some of the world’s leading material manufacturers to bring us innovations such as: ColdBlack, ‘C’ Change, Gore-Tex XCR and many more.
Their clothing product range is vast but for many years they have had a professional line, recently known as the ‘Extreme Range’. This core array of items have been tailored for those end users that want the best, the latest technologies and pieces that perform like they’re supposed to with absolutely no compromise.
In 2012 Mammut will be 150 years old, to mark this occasion they have gone back to the drawing board and re-designed the ‘Extreme’ range calling it ‘Eiger Extreme’. This collection will be available from late August 2011 in a limited number of stores worldwide. As a Mammut premium retailer V12 will be one of the few select stores that will be stocking it. Having seen the range in full, we thought it would be an idea to give you a taster of what is to come, a chance to hear about the latest innovations and technologies that Mammut have been working on to incorporate in this very unique and special collection.
Mammut Nordwand Jacket - Black
The Nordwand Jacket is the 3 layer Gor-Tex Pro Shell which takes the place of the Logan Jacket, this is an extremely tough, abrasion resistant full stretch 3-layer Jacket which comes with a completely new hood adjustment system that ensures you have a perfect fit every time, helmet or not. There is a new switchback Velcro adjustment system to seal the cuffs, front access pit zips, front pockets to allow easy access if your wearing a harness or rucksack and a detachable snow skirt to name just a few features. The Logan Jacket became Mammut’s high end signature piece, the Nordwand looks like it will steal it’s thunder.
Mammut Felstrum Jacket
Next up comes the Felstrum Half Zip Jacket, probably my favourite piece of the collection. Made from Gore-Tex Active Shell 3 layer designed for fast and light purposes this material feels great, even next to the skin, it has a much higher breath-ability aspect than other Gore-Tex fabrics. Although this is a light fabric (297g for a medium Felstrum) it feels like its not going to rip if you brush up against a rock or suchlike which has always been the problem with paclites.
Mammut Felstrum zip feature and stuff sac.
It also comes with a brand new and innovative zip: the spiral is placed directly on the outer material in order to reduce weight and avoid sewing. A front pocket and pit zips are all thrown in all at under 300g! This jacket feels great to wear, looks amazing and has a feel and design about it that screams of practicality and fast single day ascents!
Mammut Gipfelgrat Waterproof Soft-shell
The Gipfelgrat Jacket is a Polartec NeoShell Waterproof soft-shell, there has already been a lot of interest in this jacket, the perfect Alpine companion, whether your bagging peaks, multi-pitch climbing, ice climbing or skiing. It pretty much covers all your needs. A 3 point hood adjustment system, front-reach sleeves, switchback Velcro cuff adjustment system, pit zips…..
The Eiswand Pull is a Polartec Thermal Pro Insulation piece that has an incredible warmth to weight ratio, it really has to be tried to be believed. Flat lock seams, thumb loops and a lightweight thin and close fitting hood made from Polartec Powerstretch are just some of the features that help make this a no-brainer when it comes to layering insulation.
Mammut Moench Top
The Moench Longsleeve is a Polartec Power stretch item similar to the Kula in design and fit. A top end base layer that has incredible stretch and fast drying capabilities, thumb loops, a high collar for neck protection and covered chin protection are just some of its features, a lovely functional piece.
Mammut Nordwand Pants
The Nordwand Pants as the name would suggest are the matching trouser set to the Nordwand Jacket. Made from the same Gore-Tex Pro Shell material they come with a raised waistband with incorporated Coolmax moisture management, full length drop-seat, snow-skirt to suit both alpine and ski boots to name a few features, a suitable match for the jacket without question.
Mammut Eisfeld Pant
The Eisfeld Pants are Schoeller Soft Shell Dryskin Pants that incorporate ColdBlack technology. Coolmax moisture management raised waistband, Snowskirt suitable for Alpine or Ski Boots and many other refinements make these pants a must have for ski touring, classic alpinism or backcountry skiing.
Well that’s most of the Men’s kit sorted, now have a look at the Women’s, this is entirely new as previously there has only been an Extreme range for men. The items in general are similar to the men’s in terms of fabrics and what they do but have a feminine cut with specific details that address many of the details other manufacturers leave out. kidney warmth being one such example, Women generally suffer more from cold in the kidney area than men so in the Mittelegi Jacket the snow-skirt is made from a warmer material so it protects the kidneys more. The reaction we have had so far from our female customers that have seen the range has been amazing, favourite picks so far seem to be the soft shell and the trousers, with very agreeable comments regarding the Mammut colour pallet for the collection.
Mammut Mittellegi Jacket
The Mittellegi Jacket is the equivalent Nordwand made from the same Gore-Tex Pro Shell 3 layer material, it has the same new hood adjustment system and the other refinements that the Nordwand has with a feminine cut and a detachable snow skirt made from a warm material to help protect the kidney area.
Mammut Ultimate Westgrat Jacket
The Ultimate Westgrat Jacket is a soft shell made from Gore Windstopper Extreme 10615, comes with 3 point hood adjustment system, switchback cuff Velcro system, front-reach sleeves which are ergonomically tailored to climbing movement, font access pit zips and much more. A beautiful soft-shell jacket.
Mammut Schneefeld
The Schneefeld Jacket is a hooded Polartec Thermal Pro insulation piece that has outstanding insulation to weight properties, flat lock seems, thumb loops and covered chin protector to name a few of its features. Pretty much exactly what you want from an insulation piece.
Mammut Jungfrau Top
The Jungfrau Longsleeve is the Equivelant of the men’s Moench with all the same features, such as flat lock seams, thumb loops, covered chin protector with flat, non protruding edge, heat treated using laser cut and an alpine fit. This is an exceptional base layer.
Mammut Mittellegi Pants
The Mitellegi Pants are the matching set for the Mitellegi Jacket again with all the same features as the men’s equivalent trousers the Nordwand Pant. The most robust pants of the range. Raised Coolmax waistband, full length drop seat with zips that continue onto the upper leg and can be used for side ventilation, snow skirt for both alpine and ski boots, hem reinforcement and crampon protection made from Schoeller Keprotech to name a few.
Mammut Eismeer Pant
The Eismeer Pants are Schoeller Soft Shell pants with the same features as the men’s Eisfeld Pants. Made from soft highly elastic Dryskin material, ColdBlack technology, which makes dark materials behave like light ones, absorbing up to 80% of the sunlight, Coolmax moisture management, externally adjustable waistband……
Mammut Nordwand Glove
There is also a Nordwand Glove made from Gore-Tex Pro Shell 3 layer material, a fast drying Stollen Beanie.
Mammut Nordwand TL
The Nordwand TL is a thinsulate lined fully speced gaitered B3 mountaineering boot with a speed lace system, easy entry system, waterproof YKK zipper on the gaiter and an insulated carbon innersole. Built around the heritage that is Raichle and the run away success of the Mammook, these are boots to go higher with!
Finally the Trion Nordwand 35 is a roll top closure rucksack with many new features, some of which include: removable hip belt, a large front opening to main compartment, detachable crampon pocket, ski carrier, ice tool and pole attachment …..
To see all the products in full and more information look out for them near the end of August at the store, we will post when they are available via face-book and the news section of the site.
Having tried some of these products already it has to be said that Mammut have not let us down, their dedication to innovation and quality has produced a stunning end user collection that it will be very hard to beat. Of course they’re not cheap but then what items of quality are?In this game you get what you pay for, I’ve had my Logan Jacket for more than 6 years now, granted it’s a little dirtier and there’s the odd scuff mark on it but in terms of its looks and how it performs it works as well now as the day I bought it. The old Extreme range was already in a class of its own but the new Eiger Extreme Range has taken it at least one step further possibly two!
Mammut Extreme Logo detailing as a gaiter grip!
Mammut and Gore-Tex
It's all about the detail
Mammut Eismeer Detail
Mammut Mittellegi Pants and Schneefeld Jacket
Frankenjura
The past month or so there’s been a trip to the Frankenjura on the horizon! Happily this has coincided with crappy weather, so bolt clipping on the Orme and endurance training on the boards hasn’t been too difficult to get into.
The Frankenjura is one of those places where anyone that’s into sport climbing and pushing their grade has heard of, but very few people have been! It’s a climbing area steeped in history; Kurt Albert started the redpoint there, Wolfgang Gullich invented the campus board to train for specific routes there, and Jerry Moffatt rode his motorbike and got his knee down there (and did some climbing too!).
Chris Igel on the stereotypical steep, powerful, pocket-pulling Saftfeld (7B+) at Marientaler Wände. Photo: Jim McCormack
Although its reputation is for steep, powerful, pocket pulling, there’s a massive selection of lengths and angles, and while pockets are the order of the day, there’s plenty of crimping to be had too.
Old skool DMM logo and Monkey...cool!! Frankenjura strongman and DMM climber Heiko Queitsch's van.Photo: Jim McCormack
I’d never been before but ever since hearing about Action Directe, the world’s first 9a, I’d always wanted to go. DMM were holding an event there at the Eichler Campsite so it seemed like a good opportunity to tag along. I felt like I’d been in full redpoint-battle mode down at LPT too, so a week of carefree on-sighting was pretty appealing!
Ben Slack on Wounded Knee (7b) at Marientaler Wände. Photo: Jim McCormack
After a full 24 hour drive in a cramped van we finally ended up at the campsite, where we were greeted by the legendary Marta (owner of the campsite), closely followed by coffee, and more importantly, the (in)famous Frankenjura cakes!! Refuelled and psyched to be out of the van, we went for a look at one of the nearby crags; the not very German sounding Eldorado-home to the classic Jerry Moffat routes Ekle and Stonelove. Super-psyched by the look of the routes we were desperate to climb but the onset of darkness sent us back to the campsite.
The Frankenjura isn't all about climbing...there're weird number-plate covered houses too! Photo: Jim McCormack
The following morning we set up the DMM stand, then, at last, it was finally time to climb. The following 5 days took us to too many crags to name, mostly because I can’t remember, ( separated by copious amounts of coffee and cake consumed in the vain attempt to get rid of the perma-pump I had seemed to develop in my forearms), and I can honestly say all of them were stunning, each with its own character, and all with multiple classic pitches.
Jim trying not to look too pumped on the Kurt Albert classic Fight Gravity. Photo: Joe Sterling
What did suprise me was the amount of trad climbing going on! Lots of people were keen to come and test out the DMM gear; wires & cams as well as the quickdraws. Then out at the crags there were plenty of teams fiddling in gear in the crack climbs and, not too dissimilar from many of the Orme routes, placing gear where there is natural pro, between more blank sections protected by bolts! New trad lines are still being put up too; local Frankenjura climber Heiko Queitsch put up a bold new UIAA 9 (about 7c) while we were out there. He has also been spearheading the “Greenpoint” trend, climbing existing sport routes on trad gear only, ticking classic routes such as Fight Gravity (pictured above) and the John Bachar route Chasin’ the Train…both would be well into the E grades, with Chasin’ featuring some tenuous moves with 7c climbing (it felt like a long enough fall on the bolts)!!
Jim attempting to onsight the classic Ab durch de Mitte (7c+) at Marientaler Wände. Photo: Kat Dunbar
All in all, the Frankenjura is amazing. The local climbing scene was super friendly, the cake (see the developing theme) was fantastic, and the climbing was stunning. A great week made all the better by great company in a beautiful location…I couldn’t recommend the Frankenjura enough!!
Did i mention the Cake! Photo: Kat Dunbar
Font Photos
Hypercondri-Jack has recently been to Font. Good weather and wine induced dehydration meant Jack tore his bicep on the first day but he did manage to take some photos…
(All photos by Jack Rattenbury.)
Dave Noden sending Le Mandarin (8a) at Roche Aux Oiseaux
Joe Sterling "warming up" on Brazil (7a) at Roche Aux Oiseaux
Joe gettin' colorful on Aerodynamite (7b+) at Bas Cuvier
Nodder on Aerodynamite
Nodder looking very shapely(!!?) on L'Angle Ben's (7a+) at Franchard Isatis
Joe on Action Directe assis (7a+) at Roche Aux Oiseaux
Mr Zig-Zag!
Spring!
Spring in North Wales is one of life’s true pleasures as a climber and the last few days-off didn’t do anything to alter that opinion! Thursday morning was a bit damp and grey so Keith and I headed for the Orme…which as usual provided dry rock and sunshine. Not having been rock climbing much recently this came as a bit of a shock to the system, especially trying to warm up in the cave!
We ended up tying on and getting a couple of quick redpoints on routes we’d not done before which feels like a nice way to kick-start the season; Keith did Werrys Woof Woot Left-Hand F7b while I did Tomorrow People F7c, then we both went and blasted our arms on the overlooked and very steep Mask F7b+…steepness and pump factor rarely encountered on the upper tier of the Orme!
Keith lapping up the evening sun on Mask of the Red Death E3 5c (crap quality phone shot as the camera died just beforehand!!) Photo: Jim McCormack
The following day saw us at Rhoscolyn. One of the good things about frequently working on the weekends means you get the crags to yourself at midweek, and indeed we had Rhoscolyn all to ourselves ‘til the after-work teams turned up. The arms were tired from the Orme so the Savage Sunbird E2 5b was the perfect warm up in the sun. Keith followed suit with Wild Rover E1 5b, then we reacquainted ourselves with the pump on Warpath E5 6a. I’d not done this before so was pleased to get it done while trying to remember how to place wires at the same time as fending off the pump. We then finished off in the last of the evening sun with the awesome Mask of the Red Death E3 5c. This is usually done in two really contrasting 5c pitches, but Keith fired it off in a single mega-pitch…what an awesome route!
Finally today saw full team-psyche up at the Cromlech. Rhys and I did Memory Lane E3 5c, Cemetery Gates E1 5b and Left Wall E2 5c while The Thing E2 5c, Resurrection E4 6a, Right Wall E5 6a and Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b also saw early season ascents, all with the warm sun on our backs…and it’s still only mid-March!!
