Siberian Kitten VI 7, Craig Dafydd
The first snatch of good winter conditions has triggered new route activity on the high crags. Some, such as Mark ‘Baggy’ Richards and Gaz Davies, are keeping schtum about their activities until all the main lines are mopped up, but others have come clean.
Matt Stygall and Adam Hughes trekked up above Llech Ddu to the right hand side of Craig Dafydd. Here the lads picked off an obvious mixed line just left of Mr P’s Last Great Problem.
Siberian Kitten went at VI 4, 7, 5. For pitch descriptions and some action shots check out Andy Turner’s blog.
Clogwyn Du has seen plenty of activity with repeats of Traversty VIII 8 coming from Calum Muskett and Matt Stygall.
Rainbow Slab poster to support North Wales Bolt Fund
In the wake of the warmly received Llanberis Slate guide Ground Up has produced a run of special edition Rainbow Slab topo posters with a view to boosting contributions to the North Wales Bolt Fund.
The A2 poster features a topo of the impressive Rainbow Slab, plus a few illustrative images and a Rogue’s Gallery of famous (or should that be: ‘infamous’) Slateheads.
The posters are available from V12 in Llanberis, plus The Beacon and Indy Climbing walls for the bargain price of £2.95 – all proceeds will go to the North Wales Bolt Fund.
We are also giving away three copies in a competition.
Can you name all the Slateheads shown in the bottom right corner of the poster?
The first three correct answers will receive a free poster. Email in your answers (plus an address) to info@groundupclimbing.com.
NB. Extra ‘clever points’ for anybody who can name the Slatehead who appears twice and the extra character (who appears in Martin Crook’s Diary of a Slatehead excerpts in the new guide).
Monkey-Bar Kid M6+, Never Never Land
More development on the Ibex Wall at Never Never land in the slate quarries. Torquil Bennett has added Monkey-Bar Kid M6+ to the left of The Deerhunter.
“At around M6+, Monkey-Bar Kid is the warm-up that both Ibex and Deerhunter were intended to be. The Deerhunter (M7?) is a pumpy route with a great crux sequence; more sustained than Ibex but easier to onsight as the hooks are all deep and easy to see. Ibex Direct (M8?) has a bouldery start across and out of the tunnel linking into the slightly sketchy left-hand footholds of Ibex. So far I’ve only top roped this but I’m happy for anyone to jump on it and go for the first ascent. A Bambi/Ibex link up should also now be possible. The left-hand corner is a project I’m working on with Rhys Huws. It will hopefully climb with few (if any) drilled hooks and is really techy and tenuous; potentially the best route on the wall. There is room for another line between Bambi and The Deerhunter.”
V12's very own Keith Scarlett cruising The Deerhunter M7 - his first time in crampons! Photo: Torquil Bennett
Explained Torquil, before adding:
“For those who don’t know, the wall stays dry and is sheltered in most conditions except a N or NW wind. All the routes have 4-6 bolts plus lower-offs and can be climbed with a 30m rope. The lower-offs can’t really be reached from above without abseiling over loose, sharp slate. Top-ropes are easier to set up by clip-sticking from the ground up. There is also the quarryman’s clip stick lying around that will reach the first bolts.”
Ibex Direct M8 ? – 2m inside the tunnel on the left there is a small ledge for your feet and a drilled side pull, start here then lock off and swing over the roof on a large thread hole. Side pulls and steinpulls take you out of the tunnel to the lower shot-hole. Powerful moves from the shot-hole bring you out onto the wall; pull your way past two good hooks until you reach the marginal left-hand footholds of Ibex. Follow these up and join Ibex between the 4th and 5th bolt. No new holds were needed after the initial two hooks so Ibex remains the same. 6 bolts.
Monkey-Bar Kid M6+ – start on the ledge to the left of The Deerhunter. Good hooks, no big reaches, few hand changes and close bolts make this about as easy as a route on this wall will get. Cunning axe-work will even reward you with a hands free rest when you’re standing in the shot-hole. 6 bolts. [Torquil Bennett 06.12.11]
The Deerhunter M7, Never Never Land
With the arrival of the first significant cold period, and the peaks turning whiter with each passing day – yes, winter is (almost) here. What better way to get in the mood for some tricky mixed climbing than a dry tooling session in the slate quarries.
As luck would have it Torquil Bennett has added a new dry tooling line on the steep Ibex face in the Never Never Land area.
The Deerhunter M7 starts in the short corner to the left of the tunnel (and Bambi). Fairly straightforward but sustained climbing leads to a more technical and powerful crux between the last two bolts.
Torquil advises a quick draw for the chains as the in-situ locking ‘biner is hard to open with one hand.
Celtic Blood F6a, Australia Quarry
9 year old Celt Lloyd-Jones is proving to be a chip off the old block, clocking up his second first ascent in the quarries. Celt’s dad Ian has become the most prolific new router that the Welsh slate scene has ever known, but perhaps now is the time to hand the baton to the next generation.
Celtic Blood F6a climbs the obvious groove to the right of Men of Leisure on the Alice Springs level at the top of Australia Quarry. 8 bolts lead the way past some tricky climbing to a steepening and some interesting quartzy holds in the dolerite. A rock over out to the left will hopefully gain the lower-off above.
The first ascent team included Ray Wood (age unknown) and Ian who claims to ‘feel as old as the quarry itself!’
“I had spotted the line a while back when I bolted Glasgow Kiss, Slabaholics Anonymous and Slabology (on the level below) thinking it would be a worthwhile addition, also the new slate guide mentions an unclimbed blocky groove on this level….”
“The unclimbed groove is now a very pleasantly situated sport route which would make a good final pitch for the Australia Link Up’s in the guide. Celt climbed well having to make a number of extra moves particularly at the top! It’s harder than quite a few of the other F6a’s in the quarry and if you’re not adult sized is probably worth a grade or two more!”
Said Ian.
Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a, Twll Mawr
Ian Lloyd-Jones has joined up with his usual partner in crime, Sion McGuiness, to complete another big sport route in Twll Mawr.
Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a tackles a line of grooves left of Supermassive Black Hole in one big 50m pitch. Access is made by a rather quirky Wobbly Ladder pitch which reaches the In the Line of Fire ladder from the groove on the left via a wild jump.
Both pitches can be climbed separately due to the easily accessible bolt belay by the tunnel – this allows you to walk in or out if you only wish to climb one of the pitches.
The last minute topo placed in the new Llanberis Slate guide (just before it went to print) shows the central section of Supermassive Black Hole incorrectly – this is actually the line of Black Holes and Revelations. If you are still confused just refer to the topo shown here which has the correctly labelled lines on it.
“The route is a worthwhile addition to this wall, giving a fun first pitch with a memorable dyno for the ladder! The top pitch is a full 50 metres, the highlight being the frictionless groove low down. It took a bit of effort to clean it and I’m hoping the wind will blow away all the soil at some point as it was still a bit dirty in places today. I’m sure when it cleans up it will prove to be another popular addition.”
Said Ian before adding:
“Again I’m guessing at the grade particularly for the top pitch, it’s sort of straightforward (ish) when you know what to do…..I’m secretly hoping it gets downgraded to about F6b+ which would make it a well popular outing!”
NB. Those wishing to repeat Supermassive Black Hole should note that a key hold has snapped off the F6b+ second pitch. This is now significantly harder and more sustained – perhaps F7a? Expect a British 6b move which favours the shorter climber.
Taid’s Wall – new low grade sport sector at Castle Inn Quarry
Colin Goodey and friends have been busy again finishing off the development of a new low grade sport sector at Castle Inn Quarry. The delightfully sunny Taid’s Wall can be found 100m to the right of the main crag above the right hand car park, close to the rear gate of the old pub.
The routes, running from right-to-left, are as follows:
Hidden Gem F4 8m
On the far right above trees is an obvious short route.
[Colin Goodey, Mark Helliwell (both lead) 24.05.11]
Taid F5a/b 12m
The right most line on the main wall.
[Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey, Paul Ingram 30.07.11]
Ffrind F4b 11m
The wall right of the broken crack system.
[Mark Helliwell, Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey (all lead) 19.06.11]
Nain F5a/b 12m
Climb the broken crack system.
[Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey, Carol Pye 19.06.11]
Cariad F5b 13m
The very steep arete on extreme left side of Taid’s Wall. A delightfully steep route on superb rock.
[Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey (both lead) 22.11.11]
Initiation F3 15m
This takes the curving arete 4m left of Taid’s Wall.
[Colin Goodey, Sue Goodey (both lead) 04.11.11]
“These lovely little sport routes complete my tally of 12 new low/middle grade sport climbs at Castle Inn. I had to do what I did today as I am in hospital at Oswestry next Monday for a total fusion of my right ankle, which will take me out of action for three months.”
Said Colin after completing the last route, Cariad.
Red Right Hand E2 6a, Australia Quarry
Llanberis Slate guide author Mark Hosey B Dicken has climbed a variation on one of his own routes in Australia Lower Quarry.
Red Right Hand E2 6a tackles the red groove just right of Abattoir Blues on The Rognon, swinging right just above the second bolt of Abattoir Blues (and with the third clipped at this grade).
Mark had previously top roped the line, but had not got round to leading it before the new guide went to print. He reckoned it would be E4 if the third bolt is not clipped until higher up the groove, and warned that the rock in the groove was soft, so do take care.
Over on the other side of the valley, at Glyn Rhonwy, Phil Targett and Tony Hughes added a short clip up. Los Alamos F6c tackles the wall left of The Mosquito on the Gideon terrace. A long reach helps to start the crux section.
Main batch of Llanberis Slate guides have arrived
First thing this morning the main boat freighted delivery of the Llanberis Slate guide arrived at our Llanberis shop.
“We quickly formed a human chain and handballed the boxes off the wagon and into the shop. From my wife, Clare – to me – to Keith – to Pete and finally to Bertie who was on stacking duties. Soon we were all red faced and sweaty from the exertion – it was certainly a good work out to start the day!”
Said guide editor, Si Panton.
Feedback from customers has been incredibly positive. Here’s a sample quote from one of the many emails received.
“Simon,
Just bought the new Llanberis Slate guide. In a word – Magnificent! If there’s any downside its that you may find the greatest of difficulty in topping this one! Surely a contender for the best climbing guide that has ever been produced and in 40 years I’ve seen a few. Best wishes with it.
Regards,
Michael Doyle“
(NB. Mike is the author of the A55 Sport Climbs guide – this has now sold out and he is currently working on a second edition including many of the newly developed crags in the Dyserth area.)
Llanberis Slate guide launch, Fri 11th Nov, Caban
Everybody's favourite fireman, Jez Stephenson soaking up winter sun on the classic Fool's Gold E1 5c, Bus Stop Quarry Photo: Si Panton
Guidebooks as special as Ground Up’s Llanberis Slate don’t come along very often so it seems appropriate to give this book a suitably grand launch evening.
The launch will be held at Caban in Brynrefail at 7.30pm, Friday 11th November.
Entertainment will come in the shape of three very personal ‘mini’ talks/slideshows, all loosely based on the strange and wonderful medium of slate.
First up will be veteran star of the recent slate boom, Colin Goodey.
Second on the bill is co-author of the new guide and front cover star, Pete Robins.
And topping the bill is another co-author of the new guide and master of esoterica, Mark ‘Hosey b’ Dicken.
We might also (technology permitting) have a live skype link to Kalymnos where author of the Diary of a Slatehead sections of the guide, Dr Martin Crook, is taking a well earned climbing holiday (or, “training for the Gwynant” as he puts it).
“Strangely we’ve never done an official guidebook launch before, but this book is the best thing we have ever made, so it seems right to celebrate its arrival. It should be a fun evening, especially if we make contact with Martin. I’ve told Colin, Pete and Hosey that they are free to talk about whatever is special to them in the quarries – so expect, the unexpected!.”
Said guide editor (and master of ceremonies for the evening), Si Panton.
The original air-freighted advance batch of the guides sold out within a week of arriving. If you missed out on getting a copy, worry not as the main batch of the guides are due to arrive in our Llanberis shop tomorrow (Fri 4th Nov) morning.
