Author Archive

SiCO4 F7a+/7b – new sport pitch at Fedw Fawr on Anglesey

Ian on the crux section of SiCO4 F7a+/7b Photo: Lloyd-Jones collection

Ian Lloyd-Jones has cleaned up an old project line on the White Beach crag at Fedw Fawr (the coastal limestone crag close to the eastern tip of Anglesey). SiCO4 F7a+/7b starts to the left of Hip to be Square with a steep bouldery start; the route then follows the border between the crystalline section and fused section of limestone, often taking a very different style of holds on either side of the line. Ian equipped it with six shiny new resin bolts. At the top use the same lower-off as Hip to be Square.

“There is an entertaining, crimpy and technical crux passing the 4th bolt – this provides the main challenge as it’s very hit or miss. The crux move is really cool with a very low crimp for your right and a poor low quartz undercut. From these you’ve got to go a long way, with accuracy, to slap for a small sloper.”

Explained Ian, before adding:

“I found it a bit pumpier than my usual slabby contributions!”

For more information on this great little crag check out pages 78 – 80 in the new North Wales Limestone guide.

Tradivarius E4 6a – new micro crag in Tremadog woods

George shaking out the flash pump on Tradivarius E4 6a Photo: Tony Loxton

On Sunday George Smith and Martin Crook climbed a feisty little route on a previously undocumented crag in Coed Nursery, the woodland south east of Tremadog village.

Tradivarius  E4 6a is located 200m or so into the wood on the prominent buttress overhanging the path; enter the woods on the footpath that comes in from the south side and follow the right hand branch round to the right. (OS grid ref 566 398)

The route tackles the steep scoop and overhanging flake crack just to the left of the overhanging prow.

“It’s a great little climb; quite ferocious, technical and a little loose.” Said George after the ascent.

Eagle-eyed readers will have spotted the bolts to the left of George in the action shot – these are of unknown provenance. There are four bolts left of Tradivarius that lead up to an incomplete lower-off.  There are also bolts in the slab right of the prow.

Obviously the placing of bolts on a non-quarried crag in a strongly traditional area is controversial and likely to attract criticism. Nonetheless, for context, it should be noted that the bolted slab (Planet Gest) at the right side of the nearby Moel y Gest quarry is not composed of quarried rock.

Tale in the Sting F8a+ – Robins adds super classic stamina monster to the Diamond

The climber on the right of the topo is Tim Badcock firing up the excellent Diamond Geezer F7b Photo: Si Panton

Just as the 2014 Diamond season comes to an end Pete Robins has added a super classic stamina monster to the right side of the cliff. Tale in the Sting F8a+ is an arm pumping 20m extension to (surprise, surprise) The Sting, Steve Mayers’ superb F7c.

After the ascent Pete spoke with great enthusiasm of his new creation:

“The Sting is a 18m F7c that is very cool in its own right. But it finishes in the middle of the huge unclimbed wall. So I stuck an extra six bolts and belay in the upper 20m, which turned out to be incredible – lovely pinches and big classic moves. After the Sting you can get a little energy back but not loads, then there’s a crux sequence leading to an unrelenting section on glorious pinches. Above that there’s another 10m or so which is a bit easier but fluffable if tired or on-sighting. Three stars for sure; it’s going to be really popular next season I think. Perhaps the best F8a+ around.“

Nonetheless, as Pete points out, there is a caveat:

“The snag – as always – is the fickle conditions. The Sting in particular has very porous limestone and is rarely mint. But the upper wall is almost perma-dry. I never got the start dry so just climbed it in undesirable conditions which made it harder. But you should have to try harder for a first ascent, right? The black rock on the upper wall is a kind of crusty coating, almost like a smoked flowstone. Some bits flake off but it seems to be bonded on hard, and it helps the rock stay dry.”

For more details of this section of the Diamond see page 426 in the recently published North Wales Limestone guide.

Happy Slappy F6c – another quality Penmaenbach addition

Ian Lloyd-Jones has added another new route at Penmaenbach Quarry. Happy Slappy F6c tackles the attractive headwall above and left of the recently equipped Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy. As Ian explains, it is a very worthwhile addition:

“What looked like a diagonal jamming crack on the upper headwall had caught my eye when I first started developing the level; upon closer inspection I found the crack to be more of a diagonal overlap with the shadow it was casting making it look like a wide crack. The final headwall is pretty cool, really well positioned and with some great moves slapping up the left arête to an awkward finish. I’ve given it F6c but it could well be as easy as F6b+ or as hard as F7a.”


P1 F2 28m As for Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy (if it’s too easy try it with no hands which is still pretty easy!)

P2 F6c 14m From the belay / lower-off make an airy traverse out leftwards to gain the flakes; from the flakes head directly up to the really cool and gently overhanging headwall which is split by a distinctive diagonal crack. Tackle the headwall by slapping up the left arête to an awkward sloping finish. Bolt belay, either abseil off or make an easy scramble up to the level above taking care of the loose blocks.

The 3 10 to Yma E4 6a – intriguing new slate route next to Chitra

Lou seconding The 3 10 to Yma E4 6a (and throwing a pose mid crux...) Photo: Tim Neill

Tim Neill and Lou Wilkinson have climbed an intriguing new line just left of the F7c/+ sport test piece, Chitra in the Rainbow Walls Lower area of the Dinorwig Slate quarries.

The 3 10 to Yma E4 6a starts at the foot of Chitra…bounce off the rail tracks onto the juggy rib on your left and gain the arete which leads to a chunky auburn thread. Step right and stretch for the dogleg crack which leads (awkwardly) up rightwards to the convenient Chitra lower-off.

For more details of this area see pages 214/5 in the Llanberis Slate guide.

10 new routes in Penmaenbach Quarry – low grade sport, plus a few trad routes

Prolific new-router, Ian Lloyd Jones may have taken a break from Twll Mawr and the Dinorwig slate quarries, but he has been busy elsewhere developing a new batch of easy routes on the Last But One Level in Penmaenbach Quarry.

“Good easy sport climbing is almost as rare as multi pitch sport, so I’ve tried to do my bit and have developed some easier routes for beginners including a 25 metre F2 with 10 bolts! There’s also some F3s and F4s, plus some trad lines which would be good for top roping or first leads for beginners.”

Explained Ian, before adding:

“There are also a couple of worthwhile F6a+’s with ‘Jack the Jeffer’ by Tim Muller just left of ‘A55 Hole Arête’ and ‘Silly A55 Arête’ – a cool square cut arête with good climbing and a great position.”

The Last But One Level now has 24 routes from F2 to F7a – see page 100 in the excellent new North Wales Limestone guide for more details.


1. Smart A55 F3c 18m

Start as for but continue straight up the corner groove to a lower off. Will hopefully clean up with traffic. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) 2014]

2. Jack A55 Slab F4b 18m

Start a couple of metres right of Agent Orange. Climb up the centre of the slab following an obvious fault line up to the prominent roof, 6 bolts lead to the lower off directly below the roof. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (Solo) Sep/2014]

3. Shakin’ that A55 F4c 18m

Climbs the well featured slab to the right of Jack A55 slab. A tricky start (much easier if you find the hidden foothold) leads to a well featured slab and a system of cracks leading up to the lower off, 6 bolts protect. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) 07.09.14]

Ian on the first ascent of Silly A55 Arete F6a+ Photo: Celt Lloyd-Jones

4. Silly A55 Arête F6a+ 20m

Start as for Kick my A55 at the base of the easy angled slab next to a prominent boulder. Climb a series of ramp lines to gain the base of the clean cut arête, a high stepping rockover and pull gains the delightful and well positioned upper arête. [Ian & Celt Lloyd-Jones 12.10.14]

5. Kick my A55 VS 4c 16m

Start at the bottom of the easy angled slabby groove by a prominent boulder to the right of (and around the corner from) Shakin’ my A55. Pad up the slabby groove directly below the steeper wall until a steepening and the start of the corner crack which takes fingers and wires, follow the crack to the roof and the shared bolt lower off. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) 07.10.14]

6. Crossbow Crack S 4a 16m

Start just right of Kick my A55 pad up the middle of the easy angled slab to join Kick my A55 at the finger crack, head diagonally rightwards along the much wider crack to join The Little One at its 4th bolt and on to the lower off. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) 2014]

7. The Little One F3 10m

Climbs the arête to the right of Kick My A55. 4 bolts lead the way to a shared lower off. [Celt & Ian Lloyd-Jones 12.10.14]

8. Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy F2 25m

Climbs the long slabby ramp line between Agent Orange and Orange County. Climb the easy peezy angled slab past 10 bolts to a lower off, hopefully great fun for beginners. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) 09.14]

9. Call the ‘Trad’ Police F4c 9m

Climb the corner tucked away to the right of Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy, 3 bolts to a lower off. [Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) 2014]

10. Jack the Jeffer F6a+ 15m

Climbs the slab left of A55 Hole Arete. Follow the line of 7 bolts to a lower-off. A good thin, technical and ‘fall offable’ crux at 3/4 provides the entertainment. [Tim Muller and Ian Lloyd-Jones 15.09.14]

Valley Uprising: Yosemite Rock Climbing Revolution – Reel Rock 9 film tour comes to Caernarfon

Dave Diegelman on Separate Reality photo: George Meyers

An exciting film event is due to take place at the Galeri in Caernarfon next week. On Thursday 9th October the Reel Rock 9 tour will arrive in town to show the UK premiere of the much anticipated film, Valley Uprising: Yosemite Rock Climbing Revolution.

Vividly brought to life through digitally animated-archival photography, spectacular movie footage from today and the past as well as interviews with climbing legends, the story of Yosemite as recorded in the history books, captured on film and spoken by the campfire can be divided into three discrete but interlocking generations – The Golden Age, The Stone Masters and The Stone Monkeys.

The Golden Age

It was in the early days, during the 50s and 60s, that (now) legendary climbers dreamt up the incomprehensible notion of ascending Yosemite’s massive, cloud-scraping vertical walls. Rag-tag beatniks and freethinkers, this generation of climbers escaped the conformism of post-war America for the freedom of Yosemite, where they forged a revolution in climbing, and a way of life, pushing the vertical realm to incomprehensible new limits and generated many incredible classic climbs.

The Stone Masters

Inspired by their predecessors but determined to usurp their legacy, the 70’s climbers were audacious in personality and vision. They applied their talent to “free-climbing”, ascending the mega routes without the use of artificial aids, and only with their hands and feet which made for some of the most impressive and athletic feats in human record. During this time a raucous new era emerged, marked by partying and battles with park authorities. And then there was the time a drug-smuggling plane crashed in the valley, creating a contraband gold rush for the usually impoverished local climbers…

The Stone Monkeys

With the dawn of the new century came the emergence of the “Stone Monkeys”, a young and modern band of brothers bringing their feats of adventure to a level once thought impossible. Exactly 50 years after the first ascent of Half Dome that took several days, Alex Honnold, a shy, goofy twenty-something living out of his van, made the ascent alone, with no rope, in under three hours, arguably completing the greatest rock climbing ascent in the history of the sport. The Yosemite climbing scene has now become a truly astonishing thing to behold: walking high lines across cliff-tops, and BASE jumping off the massive formations.

Venue: Galeri Caernarfon
Address: Doc Victoria, Caernarfon, Gwynedd, LL55 1SQ
Date: Thursday 9th October
Show time: 19:30
Regular Tickets: £12 (booking fee £0.82)
Concession Tickets: £10 (booking fee £0.82)

Tickets can be purchased online at

Twll Love and Antiquarian Direct – two new E5s in Twll Mawr

Development of The Desolation of Smaug area on the North Wall of Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig slate quarries continues apace. At the start of September Calum Muskett and Mark Dicken climbed The Antiquarian E4/5 6a. Five days later Calum returned (with Jez Leong) to straighten out and improve The Antiquarian. The resulting Antiquarian Direct rates E5 6a.

It was then Mark’s turn for a rematch – on Monday he went back with Ben Ryle to try and establish a similarly direct line to the right. This line had been attempted by Joe Brown many moons ago. The old bolts left by Joe gave something to aim for but their holding power after all these years was open to question.

There were some real moments of drama on the lead (check out Mark’s blog for more on this) but in the end Mark managed to stay steady on the lead and the old bolts, plus the sketchy gear placements above, remained untested. Twll Love at E5 6a is Mark’s first onsight at the grade – not bad for a dad with young kids who has just turned 40!

Mark Dicken on P1 of Twll Love E5 6a Photo: Ben Ryle


P1 5b 35m Start as for The Antiquarian at the crack – ascend this until it runs out then follow the slabby side of the corner above until a bolt is reached. Belay here with whatever else you can find.

P2 6a 25m Continue up the corner until it is possible to gain the slopey ledge on the left. Arrange meagre gear, and force a rising traverse back right, dynamically across the corner (doubtful rock) to snatch a clean ledge on the steep side. Wriggle, throw and flop onto the ledge above. Belay of well equalized small wires.

P3 5c/6a 30mish Follow the left hand arête of the corner behind the belay easily at first with poor gear, until a committing step up to a sloping ledge (cam size 1 hidden on left). Either take a large stride left and grapple into undercuts, or pull boldly upwards to a some poor gear and then scamper leftwards to a good foothold and undercuts (wire in a corner). Undercut wildly leftwards to the penultimate bolt of The Desolation of Smaug and mantel up to the bolt belay.

Mark has also been busy with some crag caretaker activity – the Joe Brown classic, Hamadryad E3 5c has been given a much needed spring clean and is now in good condition.

Sun Sea and Smurf E2 5c – two pitch addition to Smurf Zawn, Gogarth

As the glorious September heatwave rolls on the new routes keep flowing at Gogarth. Usual suspects, Twid Turner and Dai Lampard have picked off an obvious line in Smurf Zawn. Sun, Sea and Smurf E2 5c tackles the white streak and brown wall right of the corner chimney of Green Light.

“It’s a solid, independent line. Some great rock and generally well protected.”

Said Twid after the ascent.


Abseil directly in from good spikes to a non tidal ledge above the sea just right of the Green Light chimney.

P1 5c 35m Pull off the ledge, with good gear, to climb a balancy steep slab following the white streak. Gain the first ledge and good spike. Pull through the undercut bulge to gain good jugs and a better second ledge. Good belay.

P2 5b 15m Climb slightly left and up on nice red rock to reach a thin move and a pull up steep rock to finish.

Gimble in the Wabe E7 6b – stunning new route at Rhoscolyn from Alex Mason

Alex on the fingery crux moves onto the upper slab of Gimble in The Wabe E7 6b Photo: Jemma Powell

Emboldened by his recent success on Red Wall Promontory, Alex Mason returned to the Anglesey sea cliffs to pick off another impressive new route. Gimble in the Wabe E7 6b strikes a bold line up above The Tum Tum Tree traverse on the Dreams and Screams wall in Fallen Block Zawn at Rhoscolyn.

“After doing Smear Campaign with Caff it gave me impetus to have a look at some of the unclimbed lines I’d noticed before. This one really stood out in my memory as something that surely should go. I went down on Wednesday with Tom Livingstone and cleaned off a lot of sea beards and loose holds uncovering just enough holds to get over the slab and a lot of surprising jugs through the steepness. I then had a play on a rope and found the climbing to be reasonable (until the last move) but the feet were very crumbly and unnerving. Tom then had a couple of goes at Dreams and Screams and we ran out of time and had to leave. I was in work the next couple of days gripped that Tom might go back and bag it, but thankfully he had a trip to Lundy on Friday giving me a perfect opportunity to get back to it.”

Explained Alex, before adding:

“Yesterday I headed back with Jemma Powell, Oli Grounsell, Mikey Goldthorp and his mate Chris. After a team warm-up on Electric Blue I got straight on it. It went really well, until I nearly dropped the top cam at the end of the run-out. After a few hair-raising moments I was pulling onto the top slab. Oli then made an impressive flash straight after, independently confirming the grade and quality of the route. I think the route will become quite popular as it’s relatively safe and now the rock is fairly stable it should make a great onsight/ground-up proposition with difficulties around 7b/R.”


Big, bold moves up the centre of the golden wall. Start from the hanging belay at the bottom of Dreams and Screams. Follow Magellan’s Wall, past the ledge to gain a diagonal pod. Pull up and left to gain the long break. Arrange protection, draw your vorpal sword and slay your way up the steepness above to a spike pocket. Blind, bold moves lead rightwards to an undercut flake (crucial medium cam). Pumped and concerned, make fingery crux moves onto the slab above and exit rightwards with much relief.

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