Over the weekend Chris Parkin, Geoff Bennett, Mike Pycroft and Rod White used their locals’ knowledge to good effect when they picked off a pair of entertaining III 4s up at the very top right side of Central Gully on the Black Ladders.
Chris and Geoff climbed Un-named Route 1 which tackles the rightward facing groove on the obvious small buttress. This gave a couple of pitches, the first up the groove being the trickiest.
Mike and Rod opted for a longer, three pitch line just left of the excellent July Crisis. Un-named Route 2 climbs the buttress via various obstacles and a short chimney feature, and then continues up to a sheltered belay on top of the ridge.
Either of these routes could be approached via Central Gully (and they do provide a more interesting finish than the traditional snow plod exit), or by dropping in from the top.
For full pitch descriptions check out the Welsh Winter wiki.