Pair of new III 4s high up on the Black Ladders

The start of the 2012/13 winter season has seen good conditions, but so far only on the very highest cliffs.

Over the weekend Chris Parkin, Geoff Bennett, Mike Pycroft and Rod White used their locals’ knowledge to good effect when they picked off a pair of entertaining III 4s up at the very top right side of Central Gully on the Black Ladders.

Chris and Geoff climbed Un-named Route 1 which tackles the rightward facing groove on the obvious small buttress. This gave a couple of pitches, the first up the groove being the trickiest.

Mike and Rod opted for a longer, three pitch line just left of the excellent July Crisis. Un-named Route 2 climbs the buttress via various obstacles and a short chimney feature, and then continues up to a sheltered belay on top of the ridge.

Either of these routes could be approached via Central Gully (and they do provide a more interesting finish than the traditional snow plod exit), or by dropping in from the top.

For full pitch descriptions check out the Welsh Winter wiki.

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