Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a, Twll Mawr
Ian Lloyd-Jones has joined up with his usual partner in crime, Sion McGuiness, to complete another big sport route in Twll Mawr.
Black Holes and Revelations F6b, F7a tackles a line of grooves left of Supermassive Black Hole in one big 50m pitch. Access is made by a rather quirky Wobbly Ladder pitch which reaches the In the Line of Fire ladder from the groove on the left via a wild jump.
Both pitches can be climbed separately due to the easily accessible bolt belay by the tunnel – this allows you to walk in or out if you only wish to climb one of the pitches.
The last minute topo placed in the new Llanberis Slate guide (just before it went to print) shows the central section of Supermassive Black Hole incorrectly – this is actually the line of Black Holes and Revelations. If you are still confused just refer to the topo shown here which has the correctly labelled lines on it.
“The route is a worthwhile addition to this wall, giving a fun first pitch with a memorable dyno for the ladder! The top pitch is a full 50 metres, the highlight being the frictionless groove low down. It took a bit of effort to clean it and I’m hoping the wind will blow away all the soil at some point as it was still a bit dirty in places today. I’m sure when it cleans up it will prove to be another popular addition.”
Said Ian before adding:
“Again I’m guessing at the grade particularly for the top pitch, it’s sort of straightforward (ish) when you know what to do…..I’m secretly hoping it gets downgraded to about F6b+ which would make it a well popular outing!”
NB. Those wishing to repeat Supermassive Black Hole should note that a key hold has snapped off the F6b+ second pitch. This is now significantly harder and more sustained – perhaps F7a? Expect a British 6b move which favours the shorter climber.
