The Diamond
Since returning from the Alps I’ve been fully back into sport mode, with my mind on finishing redpoint business down at LPT! Through the summer there was a long list of people all with projects down there, but as the summer drew to a close it seemed I was the only one left behind. After 3 weeks of pull-ups before work and not eating seconds I finally managed to climb my long-term nemesis, Melanchollie F8b…I could finally relax, and was able to get down the Diamond with everyone else, free from the chains of a long-term project.
Pete Robins making the most of the brand new bolts on Robinson Cruiser F7c+. Photo: Jim McCormack
The Diamond is one of the real unsung gems of British sport climbing, but, like many crags on the Little Orme, is bird banned for much of the year. This, combined with major access problems due to the tidal range and the more than fickle conditions, makes it a difficult place to climb on. Nevertheless, when August 15th comes around, there’s always a band of Diamond devotees, ever keen to get down.
Caff high up on the recently re-bolted Wall of Evening Light, an epic 50m F7b+! Photo: Joe Chorley
The crag was largely developed in the late 80’s and early 90’s, with George Smith and Steve Mayers being the main protagonists. After this wave of development the Diamond went out of fashion, and for many years was forgotten by all but a select few! Three years ago however, North Wales bolting machine Pete Harrison took it upon himself to remedy this, and improved access with hand line; all of a sudden the tidal window became less of an issue, and Diamond climbing was fully back in business. With every subsequent year the momentum has built, with this year being the busiest yet. Many of the old routes are now fully re-equipped, seeing their first (re)ascents in probably 20 years, along with some notable first ascents becoming instant classics. The list of these was added to on a busy Saturday afternoon this week, with the Brute getting it’s 3rd ascent from Caff, Ding Dong nipping up an old open project to give Dumpster Divers F8a+, and Non-Tidal Screamer F7c seeing its first ascent in some years after recently being re-bolted. The activity continued with Never get out of the Boat, a now super classic F8a getting a couple of ascents from Owen and Ally, and Pete nipping in for a quick 2nd ascent of Dumpster Divers; with more routes getting cleaned up and projects being scoped out left, right and center, hopefully October will be a bumper month at the Diamond!!
For more info on the Diamond check out the North Wales Limestone Wiki;
http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Diamond
And for all the beta on Ding Dongs new route, watch the video!
