Summer Alps Hit
Recently got back from a few weeks in the Alps. As usual we headed out with lots of routes planned, all we needed was endless sunshine! As it turned out all the places we wanted to go to were under snow or soaking wet, so we aimed ourselves at the Ecrin…often much better weather being a bit further south and always pretty chilled!
We got there and, as promised, the weather was good, but things could have gone a little smoother with our mode of transport with Jon’s exhaust falling off in Ailefroide!!
Jon assessing the damage!!
Still, the van seemed to sound okay so we carried on regardless and managed to get some climbing done!
Heading up towards the Aiguille de Sailouze. Super Pilou starts up the black rock at the base, before following the slabby shoulder in the sun to access the upper walls. Photo: Jim McCormack
The first route we did was on the south-west face of the Aiuguille de Sailouze. Super Pilou is a largely bolted route of about 12 pitches with difficulty up to about F6a on solid, golden granite, that tops out at aroun 3,500m. With a big walk in to a bivvy spot the evening before it was the perfect route to brush the cobwebs away!
Jon seconding the first pitch of Super Pilou. Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim on lower pitches of Super Pilou. Photo: Jon Byrne
Jon approaching the steepness on the Sailouze. Photo: Jim McCormack
After a rest day and a bit of valley cragging we headed for a long route on the compact limestone of the Tete de Colombe…only to get snowed off the last 2 pitches. After a very wet retreat and walk out, we went to the bakery, ate lots of pain aux chocolate, and went to Ceuse. I always forget how good this crag is-the climbing is just amazing! After a good day of on-sighting the weather was on the up in the mountains, so off we went.
Next up was another long granite route, this time on the south side of Les Bans. Pas D’Asile pour Pazazu is a nicely sustained route about 500m long on fantastic, compact rock.
The Contrefort Median on the south side of Les Bans. Pas D'Asile pour Pazazu takes a line up the centre of the buttress, just right of the vague groove feature. Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim on Pas D'Asile pour Pazazu. Photo: Jon Byrne
The timing was marginally better on this route, climbing and descending in the sun, until the last 2 abseils and the (long) walk out accompanied by heavy, heavy rain! Another few rest days (if only to dry the ropes!!) and we set our sights on a classic route on the Tete du Rouget.
We’d seen the less impressive side of this mountain before, from the fairy tale-esque Aiguille Dibona, but had been told of an amazing, long route on the south side up solid, red granite. A slightly committing abseil approach left us at the base of the wall and our first look at the route. Solid, red patina catching the morning sun got us pretty psyched and the climbing didn’t disappoint. Le Tresor de Rackham le Rouget has awesome climbing up to F6c, with many sustained 6a/6b pitches through some unlikely terrain, and stunning views, left us in no doubt why this route had been recommended.
Jon on the belay of the first pitch of Le Tresor de Rackham le Rouget. Photo: Jim McCormack
Jim traversing out from the belay on the start of the crux 6c pitch. Photo: Jon Byrne
Jon on a bold 6a pitch, close to the summit of the Tete du Rouget. Photo: Jim McCormack
The following morning, with not a single pain aux chocolate for sale in the whole of the valley, we departed in search of our chocolaty elixir! Later that day the rain arrived and we decided to head home. A brief stop in Chamonix on the way north (thanks Jack for beer, food and entertainment!!) and that was us done!
