Supermassive Black Hole – 4 pitch F7a in Twll Mawr
Sion McGuiness on the top pitch of Supermassive Black Hole - a 4 pitch F7a in Twll Mawr Photo: Ian Lloyd-Jones
Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuiness have established an impressive four pitch sport route on the South Wall of Twll Mawr. Supermassive Black Hole F7a, F6b+, F6c+, F6b tackles the obvious line of grooves left of Steve Mayers’ little known F7c+, Running Scared.
The route features the usual techy slate stuff, but also has a delightfully pocketed dolerite top pitch which lands you back on the main Watford Gap path running through the quarries.
The route can be accessed by walking through the Twll Mawr/Peregrine Wall Tunnels and dropping down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively via a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope.
“It’s a superb addition to the quarries giving a great taste of the unique atmosphere of Twll Mawr whilst being well protected by 35 bolts! At the top I found myself thinking how much bottle Joe Brown must have had new routing in Twll Mawr all those years ago, and also by Johnny Dawes making such desperate moves in such intimidating surroundings…Respect! I hope this route will allow others to enjoy the unique atmosphere of the place, as it’s a pretty accessible multi pitch adventure.”
Said Ian after the ascent.
Check out the V12 gallery for a shot of the immaculate P3.
