We No Speak Americano! F6a – More multi pitch slate
Tesni Lloyd-Jones leading the upper F6a pitch on We No Speak Americano! Photo: Ian Lloyd-Jones
Activity is hotting up again in the slate quarries as the usual suspects return from their summer holidays. This time we have another ‘dad bolts up a line for his kids’ scenario in California Quarry.
Prolific new router, Ian Lloyd-Jones spotted a line between Tamborine Man and the recently climbed Pair of 6. After some preparation work this turned into a delightful two pitch route ready for the taking. Ian decided to offer the first ascent to his kids, Celt (aged 8 ) and Tesni (aged 11).
“After their summer holidays climbing in Portugal they were well within their comfort zone confidently leading a pitch each! Not sure of the grade as I didn’t get to climb it myself but having watched them and having spent time cleaning and bolting the line I guess the grade isn’t far off the mark.”
Explained Ian after the ascent.
The first pitch of We No Speak Americano! went at F5c, while the top pitch proved more tricky (i.e. F6a), with an entertaining crux surmounting a bulge.
More pictures of the first ascent can be found on the UKC photo gallery.
NB. The top 2 bolts and lower off on pitch two have not been drilled yet; the first ascent was done with slings and a belay on the tree. As soon as Ian fixes his drill the top bolts will get sorted out.
