Johnny Dawes returns with a new E6 6c
Johnny Dawes attacking the bulge on his own route E6 6c, Craig y Coed Photo: Martin Crook
Veteran rock star Johnny Dawes has returned to the new routing scene in North Wales with a brace of new lines (including an as yet un-named E6 6c) on a previously untouched crag in the Gwynant Valley.
Craig y Coed is a smallish (18m) crag hidden in woodland close to Craig y Llyn, and only 5 minutes walk from the road. It was first discovered by the master of esoteric gems, Martin Crook, who subsequently introduced Johnny to its delights.
From left to right, the routes are as follows:
Bullvine E2 5b Take the grooves to a bulge. Move left on jugs to a steep finish on surprising holds. Strenuous, with some similarity to the top pitch of the nearby Bovine on Clogwyn y Wenallt. [FA: Martin Crook, Richard Cutler]
Johnny’s route E6 6c Follow Bullvine to the bulge then continue up thin quartzy cracks. Move slightly right then back left onto the fine wall to finish boldly. [FA: Johnny Dawes, George Smith, Noel Craine, Martin Crook, Crispin Waddy]
Honorary Limestone E4 6a An excellent steep route and well protected. After the initial slab step right off the block and take the obvious line through the bulge. [FA: Johnny Dawes, Martin Crook]
Milk Beasts HVS 5b Follow the cleaned slab then groove in the arête at the right side of the crag passing a weird horn runner. [FA: Johnny Dawes, Martin Crook]
“It’s a great little crag and Honorary Limestone is a really classic route – it’s worth going just for this.” Explained Noel Craine.
Approach from Craig y Llyn; head back up the road (in the direction of Llyn Gwynant) and go through a black metal gate (as for the approach to another of Martin’s routes: the criminally under-rated Power Snob). Continue up through woods on a vague path for 5 minutes and you should find the crag.
