Temple of Gloom F8b, Llanddulas Cave
Chris Doyle nearing the lip of the roof on Temple of Gloom F8b, Llanddulas Cave Photo: Si Panton
This afternoon limestone fanatic, Chris Doyle succeeded in redpointing his roof project in Llanddulas Cave. Temple of Gloom F8b is a radical line which crosses the big roof leading into the back of the main cave where a finish is made into Zoidberg, a subterranean F6c (first climbed by Tony Shelmerdine last year) which actually tops out with an exit into daylight.
The line was first bolted in the early 90s by a group of Cheshire based climbers, but subsequently abandoned. Chris re-equipped it last year and spent a few sessions cleaning it up and starting the process of working out a useable sequence. At first Chris thought it might end up being in the F8b+ category, but on each successive visit he refined his sequence until a more efficient method emerged.
At this point a quick success seemed to be on the cards, but Chris was frustrated by several more visits where he was either stopped by poor conditions or where he fell from the lip of the main roof. On Tuesday he actually latched the jug at the end of the main difficulties, but his heel dislodged and he lost contact.
Today he took a few falls on the central cross through move, before everything fell into place and Chris found himself sat in the small cave above the hard climbing, but with a tricky F6c above him. After a brief and nervous de-pump Chris headed for the top, taking extra care not to fluff any of the moves.
“I climbed out of the cave into the sunlight. Just as I clipped the belay I looked across and saw the sun shining bright on a grassy hill – it was a great moment!” Enthused Chris after the ascent.
The climbing on this route is particularly radical, almost like a Parisella’s Cave link lifted off the ground. After a steady start up the pillar the difficulties kick in straight away with a desperate undercut slap to a slopey hold which must be matched with excruciating body tension, which must be held all the way into a powerful cross through. Thereafter a series of intense pulls leads to the lip where a final crux snatch gains better holds.
Check out Chris’s blog for the full story and a film.
