A Pair of Six E3 5c – more Slate routes
Bad taste lycra makes a long awaited return to the quarries! Jim Kelly on F*** Les Clotures F5b/c, Australia Quarry Photo: John Redhead
More diverse slate action from the usual suspects.
Firstly in California, Chris Davies, Mark Williams and Ian Lloyd Jones climbed the obvious crack line 10m right of Tambourine Man to give a 35m pitch.
A Pair of Six E3 5c starts below the obvious bolt, heading up to the right hand side of the halfway ledge and a further bolt. It then continues up the crack passing two more bolts and some wire placements. There is a tree belay and descent is via an abseil off the California Arete chain.
“It’s so obvious I’d have to give it a star just for the line. The climbing is not bad either!” commented Chris.
Chris and Mark also climbed a new sport line in the Monkey bar area (Never Never Land). Offa’s F6b is the first line on the right as you enter the bay, i.e. to the right of the recently climbed Penblwydd Hapus (i fi). The line runs up the middle of the steep wall, passing five bolts to a chain lower off. Nice climbing apparently, with a crux section crossing the overlap at half height.
Up on the Looning the Tube Slab in Australia Jim Kelly, Julia Kelly and John Redhead added a new line with a rather provocative name.
F*** Les Clotures F5b/c climbs the well-cleaned slab right Gerboa Racer and left of the unstable pillar. Five bolts lead to a final few metres common with Gerboa Racer and a new lower off. Access is via an abseil from 2 bolts at the foot of Steps of Glory on the tier above or from below via the Tunnel of Love.
“A good route and should prove popular. It also opens up possibilities further right on this section of the slab.” Explained Jim.
