Febrile Lustre E2/3 5c, Llanberis Pass
Clogwyn y Grochan photo/topo by Iwan Arfon Jones
You may have assumed that popular, intensely developed crags such as Clogwyn y Grochan would have little to offer on the new route front, but it is surprising how much untouched rock there is. Llanberis Pass guru, Iwan Arfon Jones has, along with Leo Scheltinga, climbed three new lines on the left end of the crag.
First up is Febrile Lustre E2/3 5c, a three pitch route starting up and left of Delphos. The technical slabby first pitch fights to stay away from the grassy slope the left; its grade will probably change as it cleans off. The second pitch is a great find for the connoisseurs of crack, a thuggish addition.
Further left is an unnamed two pitch E2 5c with varied and exciting climbing, being equally bold and precarious on both pitches.
And lastly there is Chirpy Burpy Cheap Sheep a three pitch E1 5b with good moves and interesting climbing throughout; however,
“Care is needed with the rock in some areas towards the top. Not the best time for your mates first 4c pitch. The airy rib above the junction with Delphos (on the first pitch) is a delight, with just enough lack of gear to make itself felt.” Explained Iwan, before adding:
“It was great to find such an undeveloped area in the Pass, past which many a climber has walked or driven with barely a glimmer of notice. Such is the draw of the great classics on the eye.”
