Psychodelicate – re-climbed at F7c, Slate
Psychodelicate topo Photo: Si Panton
Calum Muskett has re-climbed George Smith’s enigmatic slate test piece, Psychodelicate on the right side of the Railtrack Slab in Australia.
The route had suffered a rock fall, resulting in the loss of the initial section of climbing. During the recent phase of re-equipping the bolts were replaced, but the route remained unclimbed.
Remarkably Calum managed to onsight it – a fine effort given the suggested grade of F7c and the tricky nature of the climbing.
“It’s a fantastic route, maybe three stars. I managed it onsight somehow and there seemed to be two distinct crux moves of British 6c. The first crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts and I’m not going to tell anyone how to do it but it’s a great problem solving exercise.” Explained Calum, before adding:
“The next crux comes at the very end of the route and is a very thin slab which I think was in fact the original crux. I’m not 100% sure of the grade because it’s got a weird first crux move and it’s probably my hardest sport onsight. I’m going to give it F7c and it might go up or down a + grade but F7c would seem about right I think. I really would recommend it to anyone though because the traverse is great.”
The route was originally given a grade of E5 6c by George; the jump to F7c may seem like a big leap, but some of George’s other slate routes have also seen big upgrades when re-equipped (for example Vermin on the Ridiculous in the Rainbow Walls Lower area was re-assessed from E4 6b to F7b/+!)
