Faith, Hope and Charity E8 6c, Ogwen
Calum Muskett trying out the line of Faith, Hope and Charity E8 6c last summer above some pads - the final solo this month was done pad free Photo: Muskett collection
Young Calum Muskett has headpointed a bold route in Tin Can Gully just above the Ogwen Cottage in the Ogwen Valley. Faith, Hope and Charity E8 6c takes a thin and protectionless line up the main slab in the cutting.
“I’ve tentatively graded it E8 6c, the only other person to try it was Johnny Dawes and he thought it was comfortably E8, it is harder if you’re a dwarf though! Because this is the slab that the centres abseil down it’s made it possibly the most polished route of its grade in Britain!” explained Calum, before offering the following description:
“Climb the centre of the slab starting at some quartz knobbles. Use some small and sharp holds to get up to a finger jug 3m up. Rest and psyche up for the commiting moves above. Climb up by a series of high rockovers with few helpful handholds. The moves steadily get
harder until you’re forced to make a ‘do or break both your legs’ lunge for the finishing crimps. Congratulations.”
“I hadn’t linked the route this year but I’d had a brief go on a shunt and was fairly confident. It was also the first time the slab had been dry in about 5 months so I was desperate to climb it. The lead went well but for one move above halfway where I got sewing machine leg but I managed to calm myself down and commit to the finishing lunge. The ascent was made with no mats.”
